先来一张亚洲最会穿的男人合照镇楼。
需要大图的私窗nia叔。
从左到右分别是:Daisuke Ueda, Noma Han, Eugene Tong, Danyl Geneciran, Tae Hwan Kim, Hyeong Seop Park, Paolo Roldan, Kim Won Jung, Sang Woo Kim, Sung Jin Park, Do Jin Kim, Dao Yi Chao, Young Jun Koo.我要先认全了才行……麻子什么鬼动作……另外我喜欢的泰焕、大耳朵,晟塡、noma也在。嘻嘻
你认识几个?
哈哈,如果一个都不认识的话 ,nia叔以后教你慢慢认。
在这13个人当中,今天重点讲左数第3个-Eugene Tong,1979年出生,台湾人,国中毕业后全家移民美国,Boston University 毕业之后进入《FHM》担任,时尚服装编辑助理,现在是《Detail》杂志的造型总监。被网站ComplexStyle评为「最有型的50位媒体工作者」,圈外称为「全球最会穿衣服的亚洲男士」这样的介绍。他的成名史无需赘言,就此打住。
至于为什么大家都说这个人很会穿,除了他以简洁的单品成功混搭街头风格与Hi-Fashion,得到时尚界的认同外,更重要的也许是他了解亚洲人的身材比例,深谙如何运用层次与色块扬长避短,穿出自己的风格。
对比起一大批颜美腿长到逆天的欧美型男,这位个子不高(大概170出头),样貌平凡得像邻家男孩的华裔,的确对于亚洲人的穿搭更具实用参考意义。
叠穿与质感是Eugene Tong穿搭的重点
不仅仅是男装搭配,以下这些准则,许多对于女装来说也相当适用。
“ 10 Point Guide to all things Menswear by Eugene Tong ”
1. View fashion as an investment:
invest in pieces that you know aren’t just going to be for one season, but things that you will still want to wear five years down the line.
1. 将时装视为一项投资:
选择买入不限于当季穿着,而是在未来五年或是更久的以后还会着用的单品。
2. Constantly hunt out the best version of your favourite items of clothing.
I have probably 10 black sweatshirts but each one is a better version of the last.
2. 持续地寻找你个人最喜爱单品的最佳版本:
我大概有十件看起来都差不多的黑色卫衣,但每一件的质感绝对比上一件的更好。
3. Always invest in coats and shoes.
Those are the two things that I think will always be in your closet and if you buy the right ones you can have them for years. They’re also probably the two things that can get better with age, aside from denim.
3. 投资一件好大衣及一双好鞋是必须的:
这两样单品是我觉得在你的衣柜里必须要有的,因为除了单宁,大衣及鞋履也会随着年代而呈现出更好的价值。
4. Not every trend works on every body type.
Try to find trends that work for you, rather than just wearing a trend because it’s a trend.
4. 不是每种潮流都合适每个人:
试着找到合适自己的穿着打扮,而不是随着现在流行什么就跟着穿什么。
5. Every man should have a good tailor and a good watch.
I’m not big on jewellery but a watch is good. I’m still trying to find a woman that will let me get her a wedding band, but with jewellery it’s mostly about a watch and a wedding band.
5. 每个男人都应该有一套好西装和一双好手表:
我还在找寻那个令我愿意买婚戒给她的终身伴侣,虽然我对珠宝本身没太大兴趣,但手表却是会让我想买来送给未来另一半的选项之一。
6. Double up.
I always try to have certain things on ice – as in, if you find a pair of shoes, or a shirt, or a pair of pants that you like, buy two of them. I think everyone has something in their closet that they wish was not so beaten up. I think this approach comes from my sneaker days of buying two pairs – one you keep on hold and one you wear – but it can definitely be applied to other things as well.
6. DOUBLE UP:
如果你好不容易找到你相当喜爱的球鞋、衬衫或裤子,试着同样的单品购入两件。我相信每个人衣柜里的单品都有着不想被破坏的样子,这也是为什么我总是买两双一样的球鞋,一双作收藏一双拿来穿。当然这项准则适用在任何一样单品。
7. Wear the clothes; don’t let them wear you.
For example, I know what colours work for me – basically just black, grey, navy and white – which makes my life a lot easier. I use textures like suede or herringbone to add variation.
7. 是人穿衣,不是衣穿人:
举例来说,我知道自己适合哪些颜色,基本上就是黑、灰、深蓝和白,这使我在穿搭选择上更为简单,然后运用不同类型的材质像是麂皮或是人字纹图案,令穿搭更有变化。
8. In menswear, everything is in the details, such as taped seams. I’ve never been big on logos; I’d rather have a taped seam than a logo. I think if you’re wearing something for someone to see that brand, that’s the wrong reason to wear it.
8. 在男装世界里,细节才是一切:
像是衣服的缝线,关于品牌LOGO我更在意的是LOGO底下的车缝线。我觉得如果你穿某个品牌的衣服只是要展现它偌大的LOGO给别人看,那这可能不是个好理由。
9. I think it’s cool to take inspiration from magazines or street style, but it’s important to take it a step further and develop your own style. So take inspiration, just don’t copy or mimic. You should be comfortable in clothes, and I think you’re only comfortable in clothes when it’s your own style.
9. 我觉得从杂志或街拍找寻穿搭灵感是好事:
但更重要的是,你需要找到属于自己的风格,而不是一味的随波逐流或抄袭别人的穿着。穿搭应该是件让自己觉得舒服的事,而当你有自我的风格,穿搭这件事就会变得相当自在。
10. Know your body type. I love all the Italian suiting. I love Brunello Cucinelli, but being a skinny Asian guy, even their smallest sizes are huge so I can’t wear them.
10. 瞭解自己的身型:
我喜欢各种意大利的西装,我喜欢Brunello Cucinelli,但因为我是个身形较为偏瘦的亚洲人,即便是他们最小的西装尺寸我还是无法驾驭。
往期搭配:
No.1 如何穿匡威
No.2 全世界所有的小白鞋
No.3 夏天如何穿短裤
No.4 如何穿T恤
No.5 如何挽裤腿
No.6 白t恤如何搭配
No.7 9点提升着装品位的小建议
No.8 搭配必须要颜值吗?当然是no!
No.9 胖子如何穿衣服
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